simply Zupan

Lately nothing special actually happened. I denied a chance to go to bouldering toFontaintenbleau, but I am too busy with all the school work stuff. I’ve also been having some problems with my elbow and finger but nothing serious. I did some trainings on plastic through the week.This weekend I spent my time in old Kotečnik.

Today I did a project on the left of CSN, which had been bolted by Mitja Peternelj. There wasn’t any red cord in the first bolt, so I got really keen on having a go in it.It’s pretty technical and a bit bouldery route, with  sustained crux on small pockets and edges and small footholds .
I named it Fukfehtar and proposed grade of 8a+.
I also had a go in Botulin 8c+ of Kruder and got really addicted to it. I did all the moves, except one but it’s possible. New work and I just got employed! I guess the season for Kotečnik is opened …

It’s what I call another episode in the Grapa. The friction at its’ best, -9°C,  so water got frozen below the so far untouched 6 meter overhang. We never really thought about doing this one but, some higher force, called mother nature wanted us to climb that thing. It was only the matter of time, even though it doesn’t exist in there.  Kruder and Zorko cleaned Titanik 7a and climbed it from the left,  to the very top of the bloc. Today I had a really cool session with mates Zorko and Aleš, we did some filming as well.  I climbed a new 6 meter line, starting on crimps on the right then going straight up on pinches. Naming it Black Swan, 7b+. One of the best ones in Grapa for sure. Zorko climbed Ledo-lomiledz 6c stand.

Definitely looking forward to -20°, let’s see what happens =)… video coming soon, stay strong!

foto : Aleš Zarič

Back in the game. We’ve been climbing in our Grapa a lot lately. The conditions were perfect. On friday I went bouldering to Robanov kot with my  mates : Zorko and Kruder. We got busy with cleaning some new boulders. Kruder finally did second repeat of my Aj bog problem. I suggested the grade 8a,  Kruder approved it, even though with a bit different method. We also climbed new blocs like Plastični kirurg 7a+ with mantle at the end and V jok pa na drevo 7a+ (b). After falling 5 times from the last move in Levoroka 7c, I eventually grabbed the last hold. Zorko and I also did Lampijončki 7b+.

On saturday I went to Kanjon with Zorko and Stripy. I did third ascent of Knights of Jaguar 8a, which I had been very close to send last year, but never really squeezed enough. It’s a boulder problem on really small crimps and 45° overhang , first climbed by Rok Klančnik 3 months ago. Me and Kruder had been trying it for 2 or 3 years before. I’m glad I finally managed to hold myself on the small edges like these. The attempt when i succeded was something special. Again the mind thing!  I had a quick visualisation before sending it and when i got to the top I realised that I had done it 10 seconds before actually doing it. Every move was just as i wanted it to be, like I would’ve pressed “PLAY” just before lifting  from ground. I don’t get this feeling every day and I’m really happy to be back in the mood of trying something hard. The Lanicor project is on.

Today I had a quick session with Zorko in Grapa. I did Dawnov sindrom 7c, which I couldn’t have done last year. This time it felt alot easier, I finished it in 10 minutes. More to happen in the Grapa next days…

So we found ourselves in the situation when the trip is coming to an end.  The first day we all promised we would climb 5 days only up to 8a. But the promise was broken when we went to Montsant- Raco de la missa sector, where Domen onsighted 8a+ and 8b(+) Hidrofobia. I onsighted the first part of Hidrofobia 8a,  fell off the last hard move in 8a+ on the left, which Urbič onsighted. Pinti Pinti and Jure also did 8a a vista and Zorko 7c . Good effort!
Yesterday Pinti proved his realization ability and did Migranya and Zona 0, both 8b. I also did Zona. I tried it every trip just once, but never really wanted to project in it, because of all the other routes. I had a complete control on every move, even though I forgot almost all the moves. It felt easy and I like the feeling of growing stronger.  If i had fallen, I wouldn’t mind, but it gets even better if it’s spontaneous like this.

Today back to el Pati, try something harder I suppose. The syke is high and weather just got better. Vamos!

The sunset , foto : Ana Hančič

Bonjorna!
It’s been some time since my last post, because i’ve been away for a while.
The previous weekend I took part in Kranj, where the second last comp of Worldcup was held. I didnt do well, but at least i didn’t feel like a potatoe, as I had before. But it’s still that pussy thing in my head when i get to the point where the climbing actually starts. I don’t remember when was the last time that i really fought another 5 moves when not feeling  comfortable on the moves anymore. I mean, i have my moments but i feel like a hermaphrodite in my head – changing sex from time to time.Sometimes i can get angry in the move, but it’s so hard to find the moment (Un mind ko ga mam =) )…Or is it the lack of training on plastic?  Or climbing too much? It’s the competititon climbing, you just have to work properly for the shit to come out. Anyway I took 36. place. The battle is never over for me and i always keep trying, but i know i have to learn a lot more than that. It’s not just like pressing the button, you have to find your own way of execution. However, comps are only one chapter of climbing.
It all turned out perfect for Urban Primožič, a guy from Škofja loka who has recently been feeling super strong, proving his shape in the semis and got to the finals. Not only that, he really did the show, just as everybody would love to do in the first finals with loud domestic support and at the end he came 5th. Being one of the top 5 climbers in the world.
Sean Mccol came first, Sachi second and Schubi third.
In the female category Kim Jain took the first place and Mina second, being declared as a World overall champion already. Good effort.
On the sunday, before finals i went climbing to Mišja peč with Luka Fonda, Valry Kremer and spanish stars Ramon and Edu, who both did Millenium 8b+ – a vista (onsight).

After recovering from sunday celebration (Thx for sponsoring us Urbič ) I went back to Osp, again skipping the school but I can’t regret it now. It was just the same as always, I came close to Karizma 8b+, felt better in Histerija 8c+ and went all the classics. I didnt send anything but had a really great time, enjoying 15 ° and sunny weather. Jumping from top of the crag…no words but really addictive thing =)

Now 2 more comps and I’m finished for the season, will take some rest and hopefully gain some grades in school.
This weekend I am officially saying goodbye to the youth team.  I surely had the best time in my life with the team through every year, for the past 6 years. Time runs too fast…Pride  urca, gre frizurca…as they say =)

2nd quali route, starting to get pumped
proud of my new trousers =)