10
Nov

There is a landscape, near Prilep

Suddenly i find myself in Ljubljana, kind of training. My guideline has been split. I convinced myself not to be able to climb because of my knee injury, in fact i can’t  climb like i could before – not yet.
So my knee situation actually got better but I didn’t really go and see a doctor,  but i rather focused on forgeting all that. I was about to stay in Ljubljana for whole holidays, but then weird “click” calling to my purpose of existence snaped in my head. Everything was managed. I had this hamster in my head running nuts on the wheel. In 10 minutes time on 23.10 on wednesday, after being in gym all day, I decided. I had to go to Macedonia. Two days later the trip to Prilep was on  =).
There was a lot of Rakija, healthy herbs, healthy and delicious food, and healthy cheap Burek. Climbing is above any of the mentioned.
Everybody was sending hard or having fun hard. Every thing that you do in Macedonia feels 5 times better there. Riding on Blue Tovornjado every day must be one of the 100 highlights.
Rock is very sharp with unlimited artistic featured boulders. So much rock that I couldn’t  focus on climbing though, inevitable to get lost in the labyrinth at least once. Fun fun and fun izzz fun. Sunset in Macedonia is far most spiritual and mind bending , unique and orange. Similar to one of those views from Ceuse. You ask yourself : Which thing did I do, that I can be so fucking happy in this moment? Answer is simple….Maybe not much, that’s all, staying simple and enjoying the taste of happiness. This shit is real.
I don’t know what to say about climbing, climbing,climbing. There’s always climbing, always there is. Another block to be climbed and then another that you eat shit from it but you still respect it. And then you go back on it and it still gives you shit and you can’t shit back on it from below. So you have to climb on it and shit on the top. This is top shit.
It’s a funny thing how most of people in Prilep don’t see purpose of rock,  not yet. But I do wish for Prilep climbing comunity to develop and bring up some strong local climbers. It definitely is a place to be!

I climbed some stuff up to 7c+, got really close to few 8a problems and I cleaned some projects that couldn’t be executed later.

BLUE TOVORNJADO IN THE BEST SHAPE

Me on first repeat of Calgary ‘88 7a+ highball. fa by Niccolo
foto : Nejc Kalan

Klapa =)

08
Okt

Sthrom

This weekend I went to Mišja peč. In first go of the trip I did Strelovod 8c, which i had tried some times years before. It felt smooth and good enough to send. Next day I injured my knee so I’m thinking about taking up a new sport. Climbing without knee drops is not possible . Cheers =)

13
Sep

YouTube slika preogleda
27
Avg

Grapafest

And yeeesssss! The alternative groups of climbers from Grapa and those from Laško finally joined forces. We did a festival and i’m sure we can call it like this. The idea was born about a year ago, and since then we only had been shaping it somehow. This has always been a moral question to me, because we had been hiding this magic place and prevented the commercial burst of people into this area.
I was tought that way. The first person that showed me Kanjon was Albin Simonič, father of route climbing in Golobove pečine. We younger generations of Grapa had many benefits from the ambient and boulders, that were represented to us in a basket of healthy ideas. Those ideas couldn’t stay in the head anymore. We all started to work on the place. Aleš Zarič has been putting the effort into cleaning trash and creating the riverbed through whole year. Everybody that cares for this place, did something for it! Exceptional thanks to Matjaž Zorko, Domen Trkulja, Aleš Zarič, Dejan Sibinčič, Matic Brunšek, Jakob Bizjak and Slatna groups, Jernej Kruder, Aljaž Stopar, Šmocl mladinski center Laško, Five ten Slovenia, Tillia, DJ Gashy – Kačič for a whole night set of electronic vibes.  And of course locals that let us create this feast of Grapa, Kanjon, Golobove pečine…Grapafest 2013.

Rok Klančnik, winner of Grapafest on the first final problem

PR GRAPN’VALERJI

Tamara Omerzel on Kremšnita

13
Avg

Summertime

For me this summer started like no other before. I spent whole last week of june bolting new lines in Grapa and Sopota. We really are developing this place and it blew my mind when I finally got to try the new projects. So i did first ascent of Super klatež – 8b+ route in Sopota. Anže Varga climbed a project in Grapa, naming it Kovca mož 8b, i did first repeat. Then i moved to a line that was probably my biggest challenge in my late bolting career. It took me 3 days of work to clean and bolt. I got the proper name for it. Torture chamber project. Later I sent that one too. A proper 8b+ but still needs to be confirmed. Thats all of the route climbing for me this summer.

I forgot when in July I went to visit Trnovo ob soči and Polog for 1 week. It was a funny hitchiking trip to the western part of Slovenia around Tolmin.It’s been a while since then and i can’t remember the whole story but I do remember some psychedelic colours and precise limestone bouldering in river forest ambient.

Lately I got even lazier so I went to the seaside, to unwind relax and feel the tourist thing after a long time. In 10 days time I climbed raznoška 7b+ on Kamenjak. Probably one of my best birthdays of my life. I’m older and heavier, stronger and i still enjoy ma life .

YouTube slika preogleda
Nerezine fb 7b+ first ascent




Living in the mountain spirit ambient

23
Maj

Zombie revolution

There’s been some lack in my blog lately. I did not post anything about swiss new year trip. It was a big 2 week trip, where big things happened and we filmed some moments . I had some problems with postproduction of videos. Luckily Jakob Bizjak put some effort into it and linked the whole video together. There was too many ideas about it, so it took some time and eventually we represent it in this form. Enjoy ;)

YouTube slika preogleda
20
Maj

Far, deep in the eastern woods. Tonalite blocs are planted in their perfection of  natural creation. With brushes we clean them, climb them and respect them. There’s nothing better than sun rays breaking through crowns of the trees, green and orange illuminated ambient, good company and skank in the air.

on the train, nervous and psyched. Everything prepared

A perfect compression thing, that took me 2 days to figure out a proper beta. Amazing moves from sit, to the top of arete.
foto: Matic Kozmus

YouTube slika preogleda
14
Maj

Spring as it was this year. This photo was taken about a month ago, when rock in Kotečnik was too wet to do anything else than this and that

YouTube slika preogleda

Today I went climbing to Križna gora. I visited this spot for the first time and I like it. I did first ascent of Poživilo 7b+. Tried some of the local projects and got very happy about them.

01
Maj

It’s…good

It was a long winter. Spent most of time training on plastic. I visited places like Rogla, Kotečnik, Mišja peč several times. I even went to Ticino 2 times. I wanted to plan a training programme , but that wouldn’t be possible because I still dont know  what the main objectives are.
It’s Čreta trip on right now. I wanted to visit this place only for a day or two and now I’m probably staying until next weekend, because of great hospitality here in Nina Koča Čreta. Impossible to move anywhere else.
I did Game of thrones 8b, first repeat of Spoštuj lokalce 7c+. The day before I did Pornič 8a and Storžoc 8a+. Zorko, Pinti and Jarm all repeated Pune bombe u ovinek 8a+. Yesterday I did La la land 8b+, Pinti also did it 30 minutes after me.

here are some photos of people, trying hard

Game of thrones 8b, first part ; foto: J. Pavlič

Game of thrones 8b, f : J. Pavlič

Game of thrones 8b, upper crux, f: J. Pavlič

Matjaž Zorko in Pornič 8a, foto : I. Zupan

Joži Pavlič in Pune bombe v ovinek 8a+; foto: I. Zupan

Pinti warming up

Ana Hančič , f : Miha Jarm

Spoštuj lokalce 7c+, f: J. Pavlič

18
Mar

Osapski pajek 8c

I had a great weekend in Osp with smaller group of Slovenian youth team. On friday I was rejected after 2 attempts in Martinova gos 8a+. Vezi had a first repeat ascent by flashing it, easily. Later I did Fantastic voyage 8a+, second go.
We both had a go on Osapski pajek 8c and we did all the moves. At the end of the day it didn’t seem possible, but the next day I sent it first go, wanting only to work out the moves. It went through, but later I suffered from stuffed forearms for another hour. So here’s  my first 8c of the year. I’m also very happy with my new five ten shoes- Team five ten model, which apparently helps me stay more focused on the sending mode =)
On sunday I took part on NLP ligue on Urban roof. I came 5th after finals.  A busy weekend and I’m back in the mist of Ljubljana, hoping to climb outside very soon.




Izidor Zupan